Frozen Pipes? Call Emergency Plumber Near You — Fast Response

You walk into the kitchen on a 12-degree January morning, turn on the faucet, and nothing happens. Or maybe just a thin stream. That's not a clog — that's a frozen pipe, and right now the ice plug inside that pipe is building pressure against the closed faucet end. You have time, but not unlimited time.

The difference between a thawed pipe and a burst pipe is usually measured in hours. Thawing a frozen pipe safely is straightforward if you know the right methods — and knowing what not to do is equally important. Homeowners cause house fires every winter trying to thaw pipes with open flame.

First: Confirm It's Frozen (Not Something Else)

Before you start applying heat anywhere, rule out other causes of no water:

• Is it just one faucet, or multiple? One fixture points to a local supply line freeze. Multiple fixtures or no water anywhere suggests the main is frozen or there's a supply problem.
• Did it happen during or after a cold snap? Frozen pipes correlate directly with outdoor temperature.
• Is there frost visible on any exposed pipes in the basement, crawl space, or under sinks?
• Check with your water utility — occasionally a municipal main in the neighborhood freezes during extreme cold.

Step 1: Open the Faucet Before You Start Thawing

This is critical and counterintuitive: open the faucet at the affected fixture before applying any heat. Leave it open. As the ice melts, water and steam need somewhere to go. If the faucet is closed while you thaw the pipe, the expanding steam and meltwater are trapped, and pressure builds — increasing the risk of a burst even as you try to help.

Opening the faucet also gives you a progress indicator: when water starts flowing, you're making progress. When it flows fully and normally, the thaw is complete.

Step 2: Locate the Frozen Section

Water runs from the supply main through the distribution system to your fixtures. The frozen section is somewhere in the path from the main to the fixture showing no flow. Common freeze locations:

• Exterior wall supply lines — the most common location. The pipe runs through an insulated wall but is cold enough near an exterior penetration to freeze.
• Under a sink cabinet on an exterior wall — especially if the cabinet doors were closed during the cold snap, blocking warm interior air.
• In the crawl space or basement — pipes running through unheated spaces or near foundation vents that let in cold air.
• Garage supply lines — to utility sinks or outdoor connections.
• Attic supply lines running to upper-floor fixtures through poorly insulated attic spaces.

Feel along accessible pipe runs — the frozen section will be notably colder than the rest, and in metal pipes, you may see frost on the exterior of the pipe where the freeze is located.

Thawing Methods That Actually Work

Hair Dryer — Best for Accessible Pipes

A standard household hair dryer is one of the most effective and safe thawing tools. Set it to medium heat (not maximum — excessive heat can damage PVC and PEX). Start heating from the faucet end of the frozen section and work toward the cold source — this allows meltwater to flow toward the open faucet as it thaws rather than being trapped.

Move the dryer slowly back and forth — don't concentrate heat on one spot for more than 30 seconds. Expected thaw time for an accessible freeze: 20–40 minutes.

Electric Heating Pad or Pipe Heating Tape

Wrap an electric heating pad around the frozen section. This provides gentler, more even heat than a dryer and is excellent for pipes where you can't stand there moving a dryer for 30 minutes. Pipe heating tape — a resistive tape designed specifically for this application — is even better because it conforms to the pipe's shape.

Do not use heating pads or tapes with damaged insulation or frayed wires. Electrical safety near water is critical.

Hot Towels

Soak towels in very hot water, wring them out, and wrap them around the frozen section. Replace as they cool. This is slower than electrical methods but works well and carries no electrical risk near water. Keep a bucket handy to catch drips.

Space Heater (For Room-Level Warming)

For pipes inside a cabinet, utility room, or crawl space, a portable electric space heater can raise the ambient temperature enough to thaw the pipe. Open the cabinet doors, position the heater to direct warm air into the space, and give it 1–3 hours. This works for mild freezes; deeper freezes in walls or inaccessible spaces need more targeted methods.

Turning Up the Thermostat

For pipes frozen inside walls where you can't reach them directly, increasing interior heat to 75°F or higher and waiting is the most realistic option. Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls to allow warm air circulation. This method is slower — expect 3–12 hours depending on severity — but it's safe and requires no access to the pipe itself.

Methods to Absolutely Avoid

• Open flame of any kind — propane torches, lighters, candles. This is how house fires start. Pipes run through walls with insulation, wood framing, and vapor barriers that ignite easily. Multiple fatal house fires occur every year from this exact cause.
• Blowtorches — even "plumber's torches" should only be used by experienced plumbers who know how to manage the fire risk and prevent overheating. Not appropriate for homeowner use in this situation.
• Boiling water poured on pipes — the sudden temperature shock can cause metal pipes to crack and can damage PVC. Also creates a burn hazard in confined spaces.
• Electric heaters or heat guns aimed at one static point — can melt PVC or PEX if temperature gets too high, and in walls, can ignite insulation.
• Ignoring the problem and waiting — frozen pipes under pressure don't always hold. The longer a freeze persists, the more pressure builds and the higher the burst risk becomes.

When the Pipe Is in the Wall (Inaccessible)

A frozen pipe inside a wall presents the most difficult scenario. You can't apply direct heat, and you can't see what's happening. Your options:

1. Turn the thermostat up as high as it goes and wait. Infrared heat lamps pointed at the wall near the freeze location can help.
2. Temporarily apply an infrared heat lamp to the wall section above the freeze — not close enough to scorch paint, but close enough to warm the wall cavity.
3. If you're not making progress within a few hours, call a plumber. They have infrared cameras and professional thawing equipment.

Be aware that if a pipe in the wall has already burst, you may not realize it until you restore flow and water starts coming through the wall. This is why having the main shut off valve location memorized and accessible is so important. See our pipe burst in winter guide for what to do if thawing reveals a burst.

After Thawing: Inspect for Damage

Once water flows normally, don't just walk away. A freeze that didn't burst the pipe outright may have created hairline cracks or weakened joints that fail under pressure once water begins flowing again.

• Open the faucet slowly after thawing — don't go from zero to full open suddenly.
• Watch any exposed pipe sections near the former freeze for drips, wet spots, or slow seeping.
• Monitor your water meter for 30 minutes after restoring flow — any unexpected movement may indicate a hairline leak that isn't visually obvious yet.
• If you notice any staining on ceilings or walls below the formerly frozen section, investigate immediately — this may indicate a burst that released some water before freezing.

Preventing Future Freezes

The most effective long-term solutions:

• Pipe insulation foam sleeves on all exposed pipes in unheated spaces. A $30 job that takes an afternoon prevents thousands in damage.
• Seal crawl space vents in winter to prevent cold air from reaching pipes beneath the floor.
• Heat tape on chronically problematic pipe sections — particularly outdoor hose bib supply lines and exterior wall pipes with minimal insulation.
• Never reduce heat below 55°F in any part of the home, even unoccupied rooms. Pipes freeze when the air around them drops below 32°F — a 55°F thermostat setting keeps interior spaces above freezing even during extended cold snaps.
• On extreme cold nights, let both hot and cold water from vulnerable faucets drip slowly. Moving water requires significantly lower temperatures to freeze than standing water.
• Open cabinet doors under exterior wall sinks during cold snaps to circulate warm interior air to the pipes.

If you need help with drain cleaning or any other plumbing service after this winter emergency, our plumbers handle the full scope. Find a licensed professional through GetInstantPlumber in your area.

When to Call a Plumber for Frozen Pipes

Call a professional if:

• You can't locate the frozen section after 30 minutes of inspection
• The freeze is in an inaccessible wall or ceiling and the thermostat trick isn't working after a few hours
• You've successfully thawed the pipe and water is flowing, but you notice drips or wet spots indicating a pipe failure
• Multiple fixtures across the house have no water — multiple freeze points may be involved
• You're not comfortable using heat near your pipes
• The pipe has already burst — see our pipe burst emergency guide

Cost for Frozen Pipe Service

Service	Estimated Cost
DIY thaw (hair dryer, heating pad)	Free or under $25
Professional pipe thawing service	$150–$350
Emergency after-hours thawing call	$250–$500
Pipe insulation (prevent recurrence)	$30–$150 materials
Heat tape installation	$50–$200 installed
If pipe already burst: repair + water damage	$1,000–$30,000+

Frequently Asked Questions